Vitamin C is the key to maintaining a smooth, even, and glowy complexion.

Vitamin C, known as ascorbic acid, is naturally found in our skin and can be easily consumed from our daily diet like leafy greens (e.g., spinach, cabbages, brussels sprouts, broccoli, etc.), and citrus fruits. Vitamin C protects the skin from UV sun damage, to brighten the skin and reduce pigmentation, and also increase collagen productions which is vital for wrinkles reduction. However, sunlight and environmental pollution can deplete vitamin C. Excessive exposures to UV light or pollutants (e.g., cigarette smoke and ozone) may also lower vitamin C content in the skin. This results in aging.

So, every skin type can benefit from topical application of Vitamin C in skin care routines. First, let’s understand a little bit more of vitamin C in its natural form.

L-ascorbic acid (LAA) is the chemically and synthetically active form of vitamin C. In nature, vitamin C is found in equal parts as LAA and D-ascorbic acid. This means that both substances have the same molecular formula, but they have a different chemical structure. However, LAA is very unstable when exposed to light, so new forms of Vitamin C in ascorbate molecules are synthetically created in effect to provide greater stability.

Different Types of Vitamin C

Vitamin C comes in many forms, so it is important to understand each form and what the benefits it brings. While many of them are great, but they do have their downsides. Some forms of synthetic Vitamin C can absorb deeper into the skin than others.

Whole Vitamin C

This refers to pure form, meaning that whole Vitamin C are derived from its natural sources such as from its plant or fruits, chemically nothing has been altered. It contains all natural compounds like phytonutrients, bioflavonoids, and natural enzymes. Whole Vitamin C is excellent for all skin types, particularly for sensitive skin. However, it is not available in high volume.

Ascorbic Acid/ L-Ascorbic Acid

A natural, water-soluble form of the Vitamin C molecule that has been isolated from the other compounds naturally found in whole Vitamin C. Ascorbic acid are mainly used in anti-aging in laser and products to address skin aging like age spots, melasma. Hence, this type of use is main by dermatologists.

However, ascorbic acid is volatile and inactive when comes in contact with light and/or air. It also oxides extremely fast, degrade the acid which can be irritating to the skin. To penetrate the skin, it requires a pH of less than 3.5 which can cause serious stinging to the skin, definitely not to be used daily. For natural beauty product, as natural preservatives can only work best at pH 5 to 5.5, such form of Vitamin C will not be found in water-based products.

Ascorbic acid and L-ascorbic acid should be avoided by sensitive skin types at high concentrations.

Vitamin C Derivatives

A compound like a polypeptide, phosphate or palmitate is added to prevent the degradation of Vitamin C as they are not sensitive to light and air, so they are more stable. They are not pH dependent and thus less irritating to your skin. They come in the form of water-soluble or fat soluble.

Water soluble
Magnesium Ascorbyl Palmitate – This derivative of Vitamin C has a gentle effect on skin, efficacy in lower concentrations, and stability at a neutral pH.

Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate – This derivative of Vitamin C is more stable, easily absorbed by the skin where it is converted into L-ascorbic acid. It is as potent has Ascorbic Acid in reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, improved appearance in skin elasticity and improving the look of photo-damaged skin. It causes less skin irritation, so this is the best form if you have sensitive or dry skin.

Ascorbic Acid Polypeptide – This derivate of Vitamin C is very stable and easily converts to Vitamin C when applied to the skin. It provides its same benefits with less irritation. However, it should avoid for sensitive skin types at concentrations above 1%, can be irritating at concentrations above 2%

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate – This derivate of vitamin C is gentle on skin and converts to ascorbic acid after it’s absorbed. It does not pass through the top layer of skin, so it does not convert into Ascorbic Acid. However, it is easy to formulate with, which is why many companies use it even though it is less effective for reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

Fat soluble
Ascorbyl Palmitate – This derivate of Vitamin C is often used in oil-based skincare formulas. It is also the more stable form of Vitamin C, but less potent compared to other forms as it’s non-acidic. It fights free radical damage to protect against signs of aging and repairing skin.

Ascorbic Glucosamine – This derivate of Vitamin C often used to fight free radicals and reduces dark spots, ideal for hyperpigmentation. However, more research is needed on its actual effectiveness.

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate – This is the newest form of Vitamin C, thus more stable. it is also considered to be more potent than other Vitamin C compounds and has a higher rate of penetration (because it is lipid soluble, like human skin) than other derivatives. It is used for general skin treatment.

Benefits of Vitamin C

Not only is vitamin C vital inside our body as a nutrient, but the lack of Vitamin C may also result in the loss of collagens and early signs of skin aging like age spots, wrinkled skin will start showing up. There are many functions that Vitamin C plays in: –

1. As an Antioxidant

Vitamin C limits the damage induced by ultraviolet (UV) light exposure. Vitamin C is not a “sunscreen” because it does not absorb light in the UVA or UVB spectrum. Rather, the antioxidant activity of vitamin C protects against UV-induced damage caused by free radicals. Free radicals are highly reactive molecules with unpaired electrons. They are generated through normal internal metabolism, and this internal production will increase with age. This imbalance leads to the progressive damage of cellular structures and results in accelerated aging. Vitamin C protects against oxidative stresses by scavenging these free radicals as it provides electrons to neutralize free radicals. Besides, Vitamin C also regenerates alpha-tocopherol (Vitamin E) levels which helps to counteract the effects of free radical skin damage.