Polysorbate 20 is regarded as a safe chemical in skincare, and that acts as a gentle, non-irritating solubilizer to combine oil and water. It is highly recommended for solubilizing essential oils as it preserves the integrity and properties of the oil. To solubilize essential oil, start by mixing equal amounts of Polysorbate 20 to fragrance/essential oil (1:1). Let the mixture rest. If it is not clear, you can try adding a little more polysorbate 20. Adding vodka to the solution will also help clear it up. Vodka will help to clarify the solution and can help to preserve the product. However, you should always test products to ensure they are free from microbial activity. Polysorbate 20 is great to use as a solubilizer for body sprays, room sprays, linen sprays, and dispersing bath oils. Polysorbate 20, when used alone, it is an excellent solubilizer of essential oils, a wetting agent, a viscosity modifier, a stabilizer, and a dispersing agent. Compared to Polysorbate 80, it is better suited to solubilizing essential oils and fragrance oils.
INCI
Polysorbate 20
BENEFITS
– Polysorbate 20 is soothing to the skin
– Emulsifying efficacy is increased further when combined with cetyl alcohol or sorbitan stearate
– Acts as dispersing agent and anti-static thickener
– Very useful as solubilizer and stabilizer of essential oils.
HIGH PERFORMANCE INGREDIENT
– Typical Ingredient
FORMULA LAYER
Functional – Solubilizer, Functional – Surfactant
USAGE RATE
Typical use level 1-10%
Mix the Polysorbate 20 with any essential oil fragrance oils before gently whisking it into the water phase. You will generally need at least 2–3x as much Polysorbate 20 as essential oils. Add 10% Polysorbate 20 to distilled water and combine with up to 3% essential oil to create a natural sprays
SOLUBILITY
Water, Oil
TYPE/CHARGE
Nonionic, Oil-In-Water
SCENT
None/Weak odour
APPEARANCE
Pale yellow liquid
SKIN TYPES
– All Skin Types
PRODUCTS
Moisturiser , Shower Products , Cleanser, Cream/Lotion, Body Care, Face Care, Make-Up
SUBSTITUTION
For liquid foaming product (hand washes, body washes, etc.), Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside is good alternative as it is primarily a surfactant, but it has great solubilizing properties.
Can swap polysorbate 80 and 20 around, but highly recommended to use both
Categories: Functional – Solubilizer, Functional – Surfactant