Polysorbate 80 is produced by reacting the polyol, sorbitol, with ethylene oxide. Polysorbate 80 is used as an emulsifier in combination with a variety of other hydrophobic emulsifiers to cover a wide range of oil-in-water, and water-in-oil emulsion systems. When used alone, Polysorbate 80 is an excellent solubilizer for essential oils and has a good function as a wetting agent, viscosity modifier, anti-static agent, stabilizer and dispersing agent. Polysorbate 80 is an ideal solubilizer for those products that are not hot processed but still need an effective emulsifier/solubilizer, such as body sprays, face mists, and fragrance splashes. Also, a great choice to improve the rinse off of anhydrous scrubs and cleansing oils. Polysorbate 80 is also a great choice to loosen the stiffness created when you have accidentally added too much thickener or to correct an unstable emulsion which has separated. Compared to Polysorbate 20, it is better suited to solubilizing pure oils. Polysorbate 80 is safe for use in cosmetics when used as directed.
INCI
Polysorbate 80
BENEFITS
– Nonionic, multi-purpose emulsifier (enables water and oil to mix)
– Emulsifying efficacy is increased when combined with cetyl alcohol or sorbitan stearate
– Acts as dispersing agent and anti-static thickener
– Very useful as solubilizer and stabilizer of essential oils – May be useful as hair growth supplement
– Used to disperse oil In bath and body products to ensure the oil in the product disperses into the bath to prevent a slipping hazard.
HIGH PERFORMANCE INGREDIENT
– Typical Ingredient
FORMULA LAYER
Functional – Solubilizer, Functional – Surfactant
USAGE RATE
Typical use level 1-20%
Polysorbate 80 can add cleansing power in oil-based products like cleansing oils/balms.
SOLUBILITY
Water, Oil
TYPE/CHARGE
Nonionic, Oil-In-Water, Water-In-Oil
SCENT
None/Weak odour
APPEARANCE
Amber, viscous liquid
SKIN TYPES
– All Skin Types
PRODUCTS
Shower Products , Hair Care, Body Care, Cream/Lotion
SUBSTITUTION
For liquid foaming product (hand washes, body washes, etc.), Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside is good alternative as it is primarily a surfactant, but it has great solubilizing properties.
Polysorbate 80 is best used for vegetable oils that are thicker and heavier. If you are looking to combine essential oils with water then use Polysorbate 20.
Can swap polysorbate 80 and 20 around, but highly recommended to use both.
You cannot use a liquid surfactant or emulsifying was in place of Polysorbate 80.
Categories: Functional – Solubilizer, Functional – Surfactant