Tools & Equipment Needed
0.1g / 0.01g digital weighing scales
Glass beakers
Bain-marie/double-boiler
Spatula
A thermometer
pH strip / pH meter
Airless Pump
Ingredients
Water Phase
- 35 g Distilled water | 70%
- 1.5 g glycerin | 3%
- 0.15 g Acacia Gum | 0.3%
- 0.1 g Disodium EDTA | 0.2%
Oil Phase
- 2.5 g Almond Oil | 5%
- 2.5 g Apricot Oil | 5%
- 2.25 g Refined Shea Butter | 4.5%
- 2.5 g Polawax | 5%
Cool Down Phase
- 0.25 g vitamin E | 0.25%
- 0.25 g frankincense essential oil | 0.25%
- 2.5 g Calendula Extract (Liquid) | 2.5%
- 0.5 g Preservative | 0.5%
PH Modifier (if needed)
- Critic Acid
- Sodium Bicarbonate (baking powder)
Instructions
- Weigh and place all oil phase ingredients into a heat resistant beaker.
- In another beaker, weigh and place all water phase ingredients
- Prepare a water bath by bringing about 3cm/1″ of water to a bare simmer over low to medium-low heat in a saucepan.
- Heat the two beakers in a bain-marie (70-75 ° C) until the oil phase is completely melted, and the water phase is thoroughly dissolved.
- Remove the the beakers from the heat
- Pour the water phase into the oil phase
- For a small batch like this, use an electric mini whisk to stir continuously for about 5 minutes. If you don’t have a smaller high-speed mixer, you can try making a 100g batch instead of 50g, so you have enough product for your immersion blender like this one to work with
- Cool down ingredients are typically present at very low amounts you’ll need to use an accurate scale—preferably one accurate to 0.01g. Prepare all the cool down phase ingredients into another small beaker
- Allow the lotion to cool. When the mix is under 40C, add cool down phase ingredients and mix well after each addition using a flexible silicone spatula
- Check that the pH using a pH strip or pH meter, check that the cream has a pH range that is compatible with your chosen preservative. This range is generally indicated by the supplier of the preservative. If your pH isn’t in a suitable range, you can lower it by adding an acid or raise it by adding sodium hydroxide or sodium bicarbonate.
- Finally, blend in the preservative
- Once the lotion is cooled, transfer the lotion into the airless pump bottle using a syringe.
Notes
- Because this cream contains water, you MUST include a broad-spectrum preservative to ward off microbial growth. In the event, you notice any change in colour, scent, or texture, chuck it out and make a fresh batch.
- A formula should be written in the percentage of ingredients as well as grams. Our popular formulation calculator can be used to convert from percentages to weight easily. It also gives you a warning alert if any of the category ingredients are out of the recommended range to make sure the ratios between the ingredients are as desired.
- People with allergies should avoid using sweet almond oil. You can replace almond oil with other carrier oils.
- You could use a different emulsifier and make sure it is an oil-in-water emulsifier as Polawax is a very stable emulsifier, so you don’t need any co-emulsifier. If you use a different emulsifier, you may need to add a co-emulsifier like cetyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol.
- I will not encourage to replace calendula extract, however, If you are using calendula extract for skin-soothing properties, consider a chamomile hydrosol or aloe vera juice and add to the water phase
Buy it from an online DIY ingredient supplier or Amazon.
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