Shea Butter

Shea butter is known for its rich moisturising and good skin penetrating properties. Stable and resistant to rancidity, and contains Vitamins A, D, and E. A valuable addition to creams, lotions, and body butters.

Shea butter melts at body temperature and quickly absorbs into the top layers of the skin. It need not be melted as it can be whipped with a whisk until creamy, then blended with oils or other melted fats. It also has a strong aroma, unless you use the refined version. The shea butter unrefined differs from refined in both visual and odour as well as in absorption rate. Shea butter unrefined has a darker colour, a higher natural odour, and a higher level of fatty acids. Higher fatty acids offer more moisture barrier function and a slower absorption rate.

It’s important to make sure that you slowly stir to melt the shea butter into the oil phase. The average melting point for the butter is 95F (approximately 35C).  Shea Butter will feel grainy when it is melted and re-hardened. To avoid the gritty texture, it is important to make sure that you take the oil phase to 170F (approximately 76C) and keep a steady temperature for 10-15 minutes to prevent the shea butter from precipitating and making your product gritty. Rapidly cool by placing the butter in ice bath or refrigerator.

Formulation Guides:

• Creams and lotions: 2 to 7%
• Salves and balms: 10 to 100%
• W/o body butters and creams: 5 to 25%
• Conditioners: 1 to 3%
• Lip products: 5 to 100%

This butter can feel rich and greasy for some. To minimise greasy after feel, try blending with lightweight emollient like isopropyl myristate (Isopropyl myristate is not typically considered “natural,” is included in formulas to reduce the greasy/oily feel dramatically). You can change the skin feel by blending it with butter such as mango which known as a dry butter. In general, it combines well with other butters.

When making lotions, allow the butter to soften via room temperature. If heated, rapid cooling will help prevent grittiness.

Shea Butter is an excellent choice for whipped butter products. To create a whipped version, heat it until it is soft and mix it with a mixer for about 5 minutes, then refrigerate it for about 15 minutes, and remix it. Repeat the whole process, without the heating.

Application:

• Dry Skin Treatments
• Skincare Creams, Lotions, Scrubs, Salves, Balms
• Bath and Body Creams, Lotions, Scrubs
• Sun Protection Products
• Lip Products
• Hair / Scalp Conditioners

Shea butter is one of the best choices in the care of dry, irritated and allergy-prone skin. For nature skincare, try combining it with plum oil as the two scents will blend into a pleasant peculiar note.

Categories: Foundation, Butters