Ascorbic Acid/ L-Ascorbic Acid is water-soluble form of the Vitamin C molecule has been isolated from the other compounds naturally found in whole Vitamin C. Ascorbic acid are mainly used in anti-aging in laser and products to address skin ageing like ageing spots, melasma. Hence, this type of use is main by dermatologists. However, Ascorbic acid is unstable and inactive when coming in contact with light and/or air. It also oxides extremely fast, degrade the acid, which can be irritating to the skin. To penetrate the skin, it requires a pH of less than 3.5, which can cause serious stinging to the skin, definitely not to be used daily. For natural beauty products, as natural preservatives can only work best at pH 5 to 5.5, such form of Vitamin C will not be found in water-based products. Ascorbic acid and L-ascorbic acid should be avoided by sensitive skin types at high concentrations.
Vitamin C Derivatives
A compound like a polypeptide, phosphate, or palmitate is added to prevent the degradation of Vitamin C as they are not sensitive to light and air, so they are more stable. They are not pH-dependent and thus less irritating to your skin. They come in the form of water-soluble or fat-soluble.
Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate – This derivative of Vitamin C is more stable, easily absorbed by the skin, where it is converted into L-ascorbic acid. It is as potent has Ascorbic Acid in reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, improved appearance in skin elasticity, and improving the look of photo-damaged skin. It causes less skin irritation, so this is the best form if you have sensitive or dry skin.
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate – This derivate of vitamin C is gentle on the skin and converts to ascorbic acid after it’s absorbed. It does not pass through the top layer of skin, so it does not convert into Ascorbic Acid. However, it is easy to formulate with, which is why many companies use it even though it is less effective for reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
Ascorbyl Palmitate – This derivate of Vitamin C is often used in an oil-based skincare formula. It is also a more stable form of Vitamin C, but less potent than other forms as it’s non-acidic. It fights free radical damage to protect against signs of aging and repairing skin.
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate – This is the newest form of Vitamin C, thus more stable. It is also considered to be more potent than other Vitamin C compounds. It has a higher rate of penetration (because it is lipid-soluble, like human skin) than other derivatives. It is used for general skin treatment.
INCI
1. Ascorbic Acid/ L-Ascorbic Acid
2. Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate
3. Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
4. Ascorbyl Palmitate
5. Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
BENEFITS
Vitamin C is an essential part of skin health as it is an antioxidant and critical factor for collagen synthesis. Vitamin C contributes to photoprotection, decreases photodamage. Vitamin C is needed for adequate wound healing, and this is why topical vitamin C may be useful against acne to reduce inflammatory lesions – Potent antioxidant (shown to be able to protect skin from oxidative damages) – Can improve the appearance of aged and fragile skin – Widely used as add-on ingredient in skin-lightening products to correct hyperpigmentation and age spots.
HIGH PERFORMANCE INGREDIENT
Vitamin, Skin Lightening Agent, Anti-Aging Ingredient
FORMULA LAYER
Additive – Vitamin, Additive – Antioxidant
USAGE RATE
Depend on the type of Vitamin C
Ascorbic Acid/ L-Ascorbic Acid
– Water-soluble
– Add to cool down phase
– Typical use level 1-4%
Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate
– Water-soluble
– Add to cool down phase
– Typical use level 0.2-3%, but up to 10% (for skin-lightening effect)
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
– Water soluble
– Add to cool down phase
– Typical use level 0.2-3%, but up to 10% (for skin-lightening effect)
Ascorbyl Palmitate
– Oil-soluble, Alcohol-soluble
– Add to oil phase
– Typical use level 0.5-8%
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
– Oil-Soluble
– Add to oil phase
– Typical use level 0.5-3%, but up to 10% (for skin-lightening effect)
SOLUBILITY
Water, Alcohol, Oil
TYPE/CHARGE
None
SCENT
– Ascorbic Acid/ L-Ascorbic Acid: None
– Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate: Mild odour
– Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate: Mild odour
– Ascorbyl Palmitate: None
– Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate: None
APPEARANCE
– Ascorbic Acid/ L-Ascorbic Acid: Ultra-fine white crystalline powder
– Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate: White-to off-white powder
– Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate: White-yellowish powder
– Ascorbyl Palmitate: White-yellowish powder
– Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate: Clear to pale yellow viscous liquid
SKIN TYPES
Mature/Aging, Pigmentation
PRODUCTS
Face Care, Cream/Lotion, Anti-Aging, Moisturiser , Sun Care, Whitening
SUBSTITUTION
None
Categories: Additive – Antioxidant, Additive – Vitamin