Beeswax

Beeswax is a classic component of lip balms and lotion bars. Beeswax helps to stabilise water-in-oil emulsions. It does not act as a true emulsifier, however, during the cooling of emulsion system, it forms a structure that captures small droplets of water, makes it an incredibly efficient thickener for the oil phase of cosmetic formulations.

Beeswax on its own does not absorb into your skin as it melts far above body temperature, so it is added in the formulation to thicken and harden the products. Beeswax creates an occlusive layer on the skin, creating a barrier from the elements but also trapping in moisture.

In low concentrations it thickens, in higher concentration, it hardens and solidifies to add creaminess giving salves and balms a great staying power on your skin. However, high concentrations make formulas really sticky, so generally avoid having beeswax more than 1/3 of a formula (though there may be exceptions).

Formulation Guides:

• A phase volume of 45% water was the critical point for determining the emulsion type:

• < 45% water = a water-in-oil emulsion
• > 45% water = an oil-in-water emulsion

Most beeswax/borax emulsions tend to be made with 45% or less water, making a water-in-oil emulsion.

• Include it in the heated oil phase of your formula
• Typical use level 2-40%

Beeswax is a natural wax produced by the honey bees so makes it not suitable for vegan formulations.

It is not recommended to heat above 85 degrees Celcius which can cause discolouration

Applications:

• Lip balms and lotion bars
• Emulsions (oil-in-water and water-in-oil)
• Thickener for anhydrous, oil-based serums

Categories: Foundation, Waxes